I’m in the delightful medieval town of Burgos. This town existed before the pilgrimage route to Santiago was established, but has certainly benefited enormously from thousands of years of pilgrims walking through and dropping money.
I walked from Logrono to the tiny town of Espinoza. My feet are doing quite well, but my pace is slow…although it has picked up since my feet have healed. Still, I walk slowly. I don’t see that this journey needs to be a race. But, everyone travels their own journey.
My journey includes taking the time to stop and see the sights. I spent an extra day in Santo Domingo de la Calzada to explore its magnificent cathedral… complete with a live cock and hen… in the church! The cock has been known to be quite noisy, even during Mass!
In Granon, I stopped at a pilgrim’s refuge that was attached to a 15th century church. The accommodations were basic… a thin foam mattress on the floor with 18 other people in my room (40 or so, total), but the hospitality was unrivaled! The room I slept in adjoined the church’s upper choir by means of a narrow passage. Later we were invited to a pilgrim’s prayer in the choir… it was the first time I have ever been invited to actually SIT in one of the old wooden choir stalls. They weren’t terribly comfortable!
A communal dinner was prepared for us and served after the pilgrim’s mass in the church. It wasn’t an elaborate meal, but it was hearty…and it was wonderful to sit down as a group and get to know one another. They also had coffee, tea and bread for us for breakfast… served at6:30, which was really quite late for pilgrims to eat! Most had already headed out the door.
I took a bus from Espinoza toBurgos. I have estimated that at my current pace I could, indeed walk the whole way… as long as I didn’t stop for more than one night anywhere. That just doesn’t seem to make sense to me… to go through an amazing city likeBurgos, and not stop to enjoy the sights? So, I will instead, walk as much as I can… while also enjoying the sights! This makes the most sense to me.
I am sharing a room tonight and tomorrow with a Swedish woman named Renee who I met along the way. We spent most of a day walking together… it’s rare to find someone who walks at my pace! She’s flying home on Monday, so I will be on my own again. I actually really like walking alone anyway. Lot’s of time to think!
So… Life on the Camino continues. And as always… Life’s a trip!